SystemFreak

System collectors have rarely had to deal with fakes, primarily due to the high cost of production and limited audience.  With the popularity of DS accessories and replacement cases, it was only a matter of time before we started to see reproductions of limited edition Nintendo DSes.  We recently picked up a few of these replacement ‘shells’ via multiple vendors and compared them to original systems to give collectors some tips on what to look out for and provide some commentary on overall quality.

Methodology

SystemFreak purchased a number of replacement DS lite cases for some of the most notable/popular limited edition systems and compared them to original special editions we purchased in Japan or online from reputable vendors.  The replacement shells came from 4 different vendors, 3 online and one from a physical store, but all of them appear to have the same manufacturing source.  Average cost of the replacement shells was around $18 shipped.  Wholesale they are available for as low as $7.

First Impressions
Every one of the cases came complete with screen protectors, extra screws, and in a few cases the tri-wing screwdriver required to open up the system.  Instructions, unfortunately, were extremely spotty and one vendor even linked to an independent online article for instructions on assembly.

The plastic definitely feels thinner than production systems and the clearcoat/gloss coat is inferior (much more on this later). The matte surfaces, particularly on the hinges, were rougher than an original.

If you’ve never seen a special edition DS before you might be fooled and from a distance it’d be tough to tell.  You’ll see some obvious differences on close inspection, so be careful when purchasing online.

Analysis
One of the most popular limited edition systems out there is the Pikachu DS Lite released at the Pokemon Center in Japan.  Let’s take a closer look:

The very first thing you notice is that Pikachu is yellow on the original system and white in the reproduction.  There probably isn’t a more obvious signal and it’s an odd oversight.  We didn’t even order the Baby Milo reproduction as the differences were so striking that we didn’t feel anyone would be fooled.

Something that is very common across special editions is that the logos are sandwiched between layers of clearcoat.  The special insignia seems to ‘float’ over the surface of the DS.  Compare this to the reproductions, which place a thin layer of clearcoat (or clear sticker) over the insignia which is imprinted directly onto the plastic.  Note the difference in the embossed DS insignia in the Gundam example:

This carries over to the sides and backs of the systems, where the clear layer in the original systems extends past the plastic base and the information on the back is printed using the same ‘hover’ effect.  In all of our reproduction samples the bottom/back sections were not clearcoated:

Another clear difference with the back/bottom is what’s actually printed.  The SD Gundam DS Lite was never released in the US, but the back of our reproduction uses the US English back and not the standard Japanese text.  Also, to give you a sense of of how different these two systems look, here are the Gundam systems side by side:

The hover effect is more a guideline than a rule.  Take a look at one of the Final Fantasy DS systems… it does not have a hovering logo, but has a clearcoated back.  In a future article we’ll try to document what to look out for for each special edition (at least, those we can get our hands on).

So, what about matte systems?  The Zelda Triforce system is a perfect example of a system that doesn’t have a thick layer of clearcoat and appears to be a difficult fake to spot.  Our advice?  Check out the triforce logo on our original and the reporduction.  On the reproduction the logo is MUCH darker and really sticks out.  Like the Pikachu DS, many of the special editions with simple logos are much more subtle. (Pictures coming)

One thing common across all of our reproductions was the quality (or lack thereof) of the stylus.  As you can see in these pictures, an original stylus generally has a transparent tip and embossed Nintendo logo / part number while the reproductions are usually just one piece of injection molded plastic with injection points clearly visible.

In the case of the Zelda, Pikachu, and other colored systems, we noted a distinct milkiness to the reproduction stylus.  On original systems, the stylus is very close if not an exact match to the rest of the system.

Conclusion

If your original DS lite hinge has cracked/broken I can see these cases as an option (how long they’ll hold up is probably another question).  The surgery required to replace the case is not trivial so take that into account before ordering a case and we’ve heard spot reports of some cases that don’t even fit.  There are tons of varieties available, so another potential use is making your own custom case, which is something we’ll take on in another article.

So, what is a collector to do?  First off, know what you’re buying and try to get good pictures of the system in question.  Our advice?  Start by looking for boxed systems as that adds another layer of complexity if someone is trying to pass off a fake.  As system collectors, we shy away from loose in general.  Do some research on the system you’re looking to buy and try to make as many comparisons as you can.

Like the fake DS carts, most of the reproduction cases and fake auctions we’ve seen have come out of China (particularly Hong Kong).  Be especially careful when purchasing from these regions.

At the end of the day, remember the old tipoff to the ripoff, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

Tags: collecting, Nintendo DS